Modern Lofts and Extensions UK

The first job will be stripping out the main structure, at which point you’ll get the clearest view yet of what’s in store – including where you’re most likely to encounter unexpected problems (such as patchy foundations or hidden issues in the walls) that could add to costs.

An existing concrete floor might well be strong enough to cope with general domestic use. However, it may need to be levelled (consider a self-levelling liquid screed), damp-proofed with a suitable membrane (lapping into the walls’ DPC) and insulated to achieve adequate thermal performance.

Garage floors tend to be lower than those in the main house, so it may be possible to incorporate all of this and still achieve a step-free threshold between the two zones.

Infilling the door
The most common route is to replace the main garage door with conventional walling matching the rest of the building, such as a masonry infill fully toothed and bonded into the existing brickwork.

The design stage assessment should identify whether the foundations need upgrading to take the new loads. Planning allowing, you could add windows or a glazed access door and introduce more daylight into your new space, which may also help reduce the loads imposed.

If your budget will stretch, you could even have a little fun with the design – perhaps by going for a fully glazed wall.

Wall insulation
Integrated garages are usually built to the same standard as the main house, so the walls may not need upgrading.

Attached or detached garages of single-skin construction can be insulated internally; usually by erecting stud walling using timbers deep enough to accept sufficient insulation (plus an air gap).

Buildings with cavity walls can have insulation blown into the gap, thus preserving the internal floor space.

If you’re going for a part-conversion, retaining a parking space, you’ll need to erect a fully-insulated internal dividing wall that is designed to provide 30-minute fire protection.

This can be done in blockwork, or switch to timber studwork lined with pink fireline plasterboard on the garage side.

Roof insulation
The simplest way to insulate a garage roof is at loft level. With a pitched covering, 270mm of mineral wool should be sufficient – 100mm between the joists, and the rest on top.

Warm roof setups, which are insulated at rafter level, are also possible and can enable the use of rooflights to bring in more natural brightness.

Flat roofs will need to be fitted with rigid insulation between and under the ceiling joists, with a ventilation gap above to prevent condensation. If you want to preserve floor-to-ceiling height, go for slim multifoil or PIR (polyisocyanurate) products.

Windows & doors
The fenestration you specify will need to hit the required whole-unit U-values (1.6 W/m2K for windows; 1.8 for doors), match your security expectations, provide adequate ventilation and suit the style of your home.

If you’re keen to keep costs down, aim to work to standard-sized units.

Casements, sashes and doorsets can be incorporated by punching a suitable hole in the wall and adding lintels as required. The same is true of openings between the main house and garage.

For larger spans enabling a more open-plan feel, a reinforcing steel beam may be needed. This kind of work may require calculations from a structural engineer.

We recomend , the pitch should be at a higher angle, so that the central head height is the highest possible. Any angle above 30 degrees would work best. In order for your proposed loft conversion to pass building regulations, it must measure 2.2 metres from the floor to the highest point.

Step 1: inspection of roof space. ...
An architect or surveyor confirms suitability. ...
Step 3: Plans are made. ...
Step 4: the loft is cleared. ...
Step 5: rewiring is assessed. ...
Step 6: floor insulation. ...
Step 7: floorboards are laid. ...
Step 8: rafters reinforced.
Step 9: walls insulation & roof
Step10: walls plaster boarded & skimmed
Step11: 2nd fix carpentry finished

We have been in business for around 4 to 5 years converting lofts & home extensions through out essex london

We give a 10 year guarantee and warrantee for any defects that may accure overbyje years.

Myself and my colleagues love to see the end finish of every single project and seing the clients happy faces ?with their family in there new rooms or home extensions it’s a privilege to look back and say what a great job we have done for out client. ?

Well as myself working as a carpenter for the last 22 years I decided to go out on my own 14 years ago do a loft conversion and extensions and since then I have loved it especially when you’re creating a job from nothing to an absolute beautiful home or loft conversion kitchen extension

We are a friendly and reliable company honest I’m very trustworthy we take over clients very seriously and listen to what they need and what they have to say we work with our clients throughout the whole project updating them every day to see it there’s anything I need to know. We are a clean respectful respectful company especially the workers very helpful throughout the whole project

We provide quotations online but remotely all our work is obviously at the clients homes

Well we give the option to all clients to send photos to us all information of the loft so we can send a quote out without even coming to the home. Or if the client is happy for us to go there to their home we will wear masks cover our faces and gloves and keep well 2 m distance