DACONSTRUCTIONGROUP

This will need to be upgraded with a Damp Proof Membrane (DPM), which comes in solid and liquid form. Liquid DPM is often best suited for garage conversions. If required, thermal insulation should be placed on top of the membrane and a separation layer may be needed in between to see that the two layers do not react with each other. Finally, the floor is finished with what is known as a floating floor, a layer of wood or screed - depending on the insulation below. If screed is used, it should be around 75mm thick and safeguarded against cracking with a wire mesh

Unlike your garage, the floor of your house may be constructed fairly high above the ground and, if you wish, you can install a suspended timber floor in your garage conversion to match this. Timber joists are laid from wall to wall with a minimum gap of 150mm maintained between the original concrete floor and the new timber one. A Damp Proof Course (DPC) should be laid underneath the timber floor and an intermediate wall may be necessary for further ventilation

his will need to be ventilated with a 50mm gap between the underside of the roof and any insulation as standard.

Extra insulation can be placed between the ceiling and the roof, just as in a normal loft.

Any room in a house must have adequate ventilation and the level of ventilation required depends on the room type - bathrooms and kitchens obviously require more than bedrooms or studies. An opening window must be installed which equals one-twentieth the rooms total floor-area. Additional ventilation comes in the form of trickle ventilators and alternative means of ventilation may be discussed on a case-by-case basis with the Building Control Body. New kitchens, toilets, bathrooms, shower rooms and utility rooms must be fitted with a mechanical extractor fan with performance levels measured in litres per second.

An easy way to get an idea of whether your loft can be converted is to see whether any similar houses on your street have had loft conversions. If you do spot examples, it's more likely to be a possibility. If you can, it's also worth going one step further and asking to take a look at the loft of anyone in your street that has had it done.

The first stage in any loft conversion will typically involve your roof space being inspected for it suitability in terms of a conversion taking place. When it comes to what is actually being inspected, it will be things such as access, height as well as any potential obstacles that could arise. For example, chimney stacks or a water storage tank in the roof could make things a bit more complicated, but can be addressed nevertheless.

Once the roof space has been assessed for suitability when it comes to a loft conversion, the next step usually involves an architect or surveyor verifying the loft’s suitability for work to be carried out too. In addition, the architect or surveyor will also take into consideration as to whether the building itself is adequate to take the added load that is typically involved in a conversion.

Once this step has been carried out, the plans are drawn by the architect or surveyor, and this is also a chance for you and your team to get a thorough understanding of what your costs will be, and how you can potentially cut the cost of certain things by carrying these out yourself on a DIY basis.

The first step in this individual process is clearing the loft space. This includes things such as water storage tanks, or chimney stacks, which will need to be moved to a more convenient space so extension works can take place.

The next step in a loft conversion project more often than not involves sorting out electrical wiring and assessing carefully what needs to be done to make sure that safety is not jeopardised.

We been doing business for over 15 years in all the experience we gain we use it on our clients and learn more as we go forward

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