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Saffron Design and Build Windows and Doors Ltd logo logo
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Saffron Design and Build Windows and Doors Ltd

Saffron Walden, Essex

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About

We offer a complete design, planning and building service; with a specialist team of architects, surveyors, designers, engineers, builders, fitters, plasterers, plumbers and electricians.

We consider every project as special in its own right, and we deliver real creative flair coupled with first class architectural advice and service.

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Reviews (1)

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1/5

1 customer review

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31 January 2019

Do not work with Saffron Design and Build. They are unreliable, dishonest, shoddy, evasive, slow and untrustworthy. As a client who has been messed around by Ryan Adair, Katrina Adair-Brown and his team over the last year on a severely delayed extension build, my advice is as follows:

- If you are thinking of working with them, don’t. There are other, better and more reliable builders out there. If they contact you and ask for a reason why, feel free to show them this review

- If you have already contracted with them but haven’t paid the deposit, don’t pay the deposit, cancel the contract and find another builder.

- If you have already started the build or have paid the deposit:

1. Make sure that each stage is finished completely and has been signed off by building regulators before processing payment. Ask for a proper invoice for each stage payment. My advice is also to change the stage payments so that the snagging payment at the end of the build is bigger with the stage payments reduced.
2. Contact building regulators if you are unsure about any of the work. Don’t take their word for it
3. Threatening to withhold payments is just about the only way to ensure any work gets completed. Make sure you always have more payments due than completed work

- If you have also had a bad experience with Saffron Design and Build, contact the Citizens Advice Bureau on 03454 04 05 06. They will lodge a Trading Standards complaint on your behalf and give you a reference number. Use this in communication with the firm. The Consumer Rights Act of 2015 is on your side and you can get redress for poor or delayed work.
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Q&As

Few people actually seem to keep their car in the garage, so planning a garage conversion to create another habitable room can be a good way of enhancing the value of your home. It is also far more cost effective than building a new extension and less prone to planning complications.

Before you start, consider what you’ll do with everything currently kept in the garage. If you store a lot of garden gear in it, you may need to factor a shed into your plans; if it’s where you keep your chest freezer, you’ll need to work out where it can be moved to — or whether you can live without it. If you really have no room anywhere else for these things, perhaps a partial garage conversion (or a conversion that has lots of storage space set aside within it) will work better for you.

A basic garage conversion will cost around £1,000 to £1,250 per square metre – if the walls and floor are stable, there is a watertight roof, and the ceiling height is sufficient to leave around 2.2-2.4m of headroom after building up the floor by 15cm above external ground level.

If the structure is attached to the house, rather than integral, and needs structural repairs, it may be more cost-effective to demolish and replace it.

Design costs

Design fees for a garage conversion range from £1,200 to £2,500, plus £300 to £400 for a structural engineer. A typical single garage conversion (18 square metres) would cost around £17,100 to £23,900, and a double (36 square metres) £31,300 to £43,300, plus VAT, depending on personal specifications.A basic garage conversion will cost around £1,000 to £1,250 per square metre – if the walls and floor are stable, there is a watertight roof, and the ceiling height is sufficient to leave around 2.2-2.4m of headroom after building up the floor by 15cm above external ground level.

If the structure is attached to the house, rather than integral, and needs structural repairs, it may be more cost-effective to demolish and replace it.

Design costs

Design fees for a garage conversion range from £1,200 to £2,500, plus £300 to £400 for a structural engineer. A typical single garage conversion (18 square metres) would cost around £17,100 to £23,900, and a double (36 square metres) £31,300 to £43,300, plus VAT, depending on personal specifications.Typically, a garage conversion will cost more if the original structure is unsound. If you are going to spend a lot of money stabilising the building, knocking the original garage down and building from scratch might be cheaper.

Another factor to consider when costing a garage conversion is the perceived value that it will add to your home. Check the value of houses in your area, if there is little off-road parking, homes with garages might be valued higher than those without. Unless the added space is vital, don’t run the risk of reducing the value of your own home.

A partial garage conversion should cost less, but not by much. Fewer materials will be needed, but services, such as electrics and plumbing, will still have to be installed and budgeted for.

In the majority of cases, the work involved in converting a garage will be classed as permitted development. However, if you live in a Conservation Area, a location where development can be restricted to protect the appearance of the surroundings, or on a new estate with strict guidelines, it’s worth checking what’s allowed.


If in doubt, apply for a certificate of lawful development from your local authority at a cost of £86. Do remember, the removal of permitted development does not rule out the potential of a garage conversion, but you’ll need to ensure the design is sensitive to the setting and apply for full planning permission, which costs £172 in England. Listed properties will need listed building consent, too.

When you will need planning permission:

If you live in a listed building;
If the garage conversion increases your home beyond permitted development rights;
You are converting the space for business;
Your council has restrictions on reducing parking.
Even if these restrictions apply, you should be able to convert the garage interior as long as the exterior is untouched.

DON’T FORGET BUILDING REGULATIONS APPROVAL
You’ll need building regulations consent and sign off for the various elements of your garage conversion, as with other home alterations. Always check that your local council is happy with your plans before starting work. For details, see planningportal.gov.uk.

As a ‘change of use’, a conversion is always subject to building regulations approval, so your local authority will need to be notified. You can use the council’s building control service or an approved independent inspector, costing around £300. To comply, the garage has to be structurally sound and have a damp-proof course; the walls, floor and roof will need to be upgraded for energy efficiency, and all new and existing electricals will need to be tested to ensure safety, including in the house.

Other permissions

Sometimes there are legal restrictions on alterations to a property, so check the deeds to your home to see if permission is required from a previous owner. If the work affects a structure shared with an adjoining property, the Party Wall act will also apply.

GARAGE CONVERSION BUILD SCHEDULE
Check structure is suitable for conversion
Produce design drawings
Confirm whether planning permission is required
Apply if consent is required
Produce detailed design and building regulations drawings
Notify local authority Building Control of commencement
Strip garage back to retained structure
Structural alterations, including knocking through to house
Damp-proof new floor, if necessary
Insulate walls and new floor, plus the roof if single storey
Pour new floor, if required
Install new window and doors
First fix joinery, wiring and plumbing
Plaster and dry-line
Fit new doors, skirting, architrave, fixed floor finishes and light fittings
Decorate

When it comes to assessing the feasibility of a loft conversion project, there are a number of factors that will need to be considered. These factors include the available head height, the roof’s pitch and the roof structure, as well as any obstacles such as water tanks or chimney stacks.

Head Height
Measure from the bottom of the ridge timber to the top of the ceiling joist; the useable part of the roof should be greater than 2.2m.

If you have appointed an architect or designer, ask them to illustrate clearly how much headroom there will be across the floor in the finished space. Some people are disappointed by how much standing space they actually have, and this isn’t always easily conveyed on plans.

The Building Regulations impose no minimum ceiling height for habitable rooms. But don’t forget to consider the stair entry to the loft space. The headroom standard for stairs of 2m applies, but this can be relaxed to 1.9m or 1.8m on the edge of a stair if necessary.

Pitch Angle
The higher the angle of the roof pitch, the higher the central head height is likely to be, and if dormers are used or the roof is redesigned, the floor area, and potential for comfortable headroom, can be increased.

Type of Roof Structure
Two main structures are used for roof construction — namely traditional framed type and truss section type. The traditional framed type is typically found in pre-1960s houses where the rafters and ceiling joists, together with supporting timbers, are cut to size on site and assembled. This type of structure has more structural input, so is often the most suitable type for attic conversions. The space can be easily, and relatively inexpensively, opened up by strengthening the rafters and adding supports as specified by a structural engineer.

Post 1960s, the most popular form of construction used factory-made roof trusses. These utilise thinner – and therefore cheaper timbers – but have structural integrity by the addition of braced diagonal timbers. They allow a house roof to be erected and felted in a day. However, this type of truss suggests that there are no loadbearing structures beneath, and so opening up the space requires a greater added structural input.

This will normally involve the insertion of steel beams between loadbearing walls for the new floor joists to hang on and the rafter section to be supported on — together with a steel beam at the ridge. This added structural input requires skill, knowledge and equipment that would limit scope as far as DIY is concerned — and a far greater cash outlay. It is advisable to seek advice from specialist firms in this instance.

Water Tank
Without the roof space for water tanks and plumbing, the heating and hot water system may have to be replaced with a sealed system. Unvented hot water cylinders make a better choice than replacing the boiler with a combi (combination) boiler but they do take up a cupboard-sized room, which you will have to find space and budget for.

1.The roof space is inspected for suitability
2. Our architect will confirm suitability and create plans
3. The loft is cleared and prepped
4. Rewiring is assessed
5. New floor joists fitted
6. Floors are insulated
7. Floorboards laid
8. Rafters reinforced
9. Dormers installed (if applicable)
10. Rooflights installed
11. Staircase fitted
12. Dormers tiled and vents fitted
13. Windows fitted in dormers
14. The roof is insulated
15. Partition walls erected
16. Wall plates and first fix
17. Electrics upgraded
18. Access panels for water, electrics and eaves storage
19. Walls are plasterboarded and architrave/skirting fitted
20. Bathrooms clad and extraction fitted
21. Second fix, heating and finishes
22. Decorating

We are a local architectural & construction company with over 40 years experience

We love realising a clients ambition for their project.