Builderko Lofts LTD

Once you have decided to go ahead with your garage conversion, the next and arguably most important step is to get your existing garage structure checked out to make sure that you actually can convert it as it is.
This will also include inspecting the foundations to make sure they are capable of carrying any additional loads once the job has been completed and the space is in full use.
It is at this point that you will know whether your proposed plans are a go’er or not, as if the existing structure is not suitably sound enough to convert, then if you did want to go ahead it could mean that the existing garage would need to be pulled down and you’d effectively have to start from scratch at considerable extra expense.
Generally, the first round of checks will involve inspecting the existing walls and how they’re constructed.
Some garages are constructed using a single leaf wall e.g. only a single layer of bricks. In most cases, as long as it’s been constructed correctly, this shouldn’t be an issue and you should still be able to go ahead with your conversion.
At this point, a single skin wall will also be fully inspected for any damage that could affect its stability. If any is found then it will need to be fully sorted before any further works can commence.
As a single leaf wall is much lighter than a cavity wall, it is often the case the foundations will have only been constructed to carry the weight of a single wall structure. This can further cause issues as they may not be able to cope with the additional weight of the conversion once completed.
If this is the case, then you may be faced with having to reinforce the existing foundations before you can start, again, this can be very costly.
With single skin walls, yet another consideration is how they are then insulated and weatherproofed to ensure any water or moisture that penetrates through does not affect the interior. The Building Regulations and your local building control office will state the required insulation and waterproofing values that your conversion must reach.
In most cases, this will involve some kind of membrane or tanking layer over the internal wall area to prevent moisture and water ingress that joins into a DPC and then battening over the top and insulation between the battens and then finished off with plasterboard, but as said, check this solution fully with building control first.
One other solution to insulating and waterproofing is to construct an internal cavity wall using lightweight blocks inside the existing structure. This is a great solution as it solves a lot of the insulation and water ingress issues associated with single skin walls, but again this will depend on if the foundations are capable of carrying the additional weight.
One final consideration in terms of the existing structure is what to do with the garage door.
With the majority of garage conversions, the existing garage door is removed and replaced with either a patio door or large window infill.
Again, the existing state of the structure will come into play here as if you are going with the window option then a single or double cavity wall will need to be constructed to form the base, which in turn will need a foundation to sit on.
As is very often the case, there will be no existing foundation so one will need to be constructed.
Also, it is unlikely that a suitable lintel will be present above the existing garage door opening so one will need to be installed.
Depending on the existing structure, the span of the opening, the type and construction of existing walls etc. it may be the case that you will need to get a structural engineer to design the lintel for you, but again your local building control office should be able to advise you on which solution you need to look at.
One quick note on windows, patio doors and doors in that these are specified as “controlled fittings” and therefore subject to Building Regulations. Due to this they must be installed by a “competent person” (see our replacing windows and doors project for more info), normally either a FENSA, CERTASS or BSI registered installer.
It is also possible to leave the current garage door in place and construct a stud wall behind it to form your new room space, so this may be a good solution in terms of reducing costs, but again, talk this over with your designated building control officer.
As stated at the top of this section, the existing structure and foundations are really key to the success and ultimately financial viability of a garage conversion project, so ensure that you carefully inspect and consider all aspects and don’t leave anything to chance!

Electrics and Plumbing

Depending on how you intend to use your newly converted garage, you are going to need to get at least a supply of electricity in there, if not plumbing and also possibly drainage.
If you are converting an integrated garage, this shouldn’t be too much work as most utilities can simply be extended from the existing property as required, although when it comes to drainage, this can sometimes be challenging depending on where the existing drain runs are and could involve a fair amount of cost.
With some properties, the electric meter and/or boiler is sometimes installed in the garage which can cause issues with how you plan on using the space and may require either or both of them to be moved, again, at sometimes considerable costs.
Depending on the age and type of consumer unit (or fuse board) you have, this may also need to be upgraded if additional circuits need to be added.
In a similar vein, if you are extending your existing central heating or hot water system into your newly converted area then it may be that your boiler or current heating/hot water system will need replacing as the additional demand imposed on it will be too much.
In the case that you are converting a detached garage, running new electric, water and drainage (if needed) can be a real nightmare as often they will need to be run underground meaning digging trenches etc, again at substantial costs and levels of inconvenience.
In situations like these (especially when it coms to heating), it is often much easier (and sometimes cheaper) to install a separate boiler specifically for your newly converted space.
Note: Any electrical work will need to be carried out by a Part P registered electrician and any work to your heating system should be carried out by a qualified plumber or a gas safe engineer when it comes to boilers.

Fire Safety and Escape Route Considerations

As with any conversion, renovation or extension project where new living spaces are created, ensuring that any inhabitants can safely exit the existing and new areas in the event of a fire is a top priority.
If you are only converting part of your garage e.g. the rear two thirds and leaving the front third as a garage still then you will have to ensure that the dividing stud wall is fire-rated to 30 minutes.
One other rule to be aware of is that a window suitable for escape purposes will be required if the newly created room can only be accessed through another room.
It is normally the case when a window is fitted as an infill in place of the garage door that it features at minimum one side opening section of at least 0.33m2. The opening section should also be at least 450mm in width and height and be no more than 1100mm above the floor.
One additional specification that may also apply is that you may also have to install mains connected fire alarms, but again, building control will be able to fully advise you of this or you can also refer to Approved Document B of the Building Regulations.

The first step in assessing a loft’s potential is to check how much headroom is available. This should be measured from the top of the floor joists to the underside of the ridge beam.
A comfortable threshold is at least 2.4m. You may be able to get away with just 2.2m in some cases but the finished floor and ceiling will eat into this, leaving you with around 1.9m or 2m on completion, which could feel claustrophobic. See the box on page 86 for advice on how to increase height.
The main limiting factor is the building regs related to staircases. These are slightly relaxed for lofts but still require a minimum of 1.9m headroom at the centre of the flight, and 1.8m at the edges (to account for sloping roofs).

Stage 1

Scaffolding is erected to provide independent access to the loft.

Stage 2

Structural beams are installed into party walls to form independent timber floor support and front roof elevation with dwarf wall.

Stage 3

Create Dormer structure and install Velux windows.

Stage 4

Complete roof tiling to both new dormer and front roof elevation.

Stage 5

Build interior partician, doorways and ceilings.

Stage 6

Install double glazed windows. Floor and wall insulation.

Stage 7

Create new access staircase between loft conversion and first floor.

Stage 8

Then plasterboard throughout and finally finish with a plaster skim.

We specialise in loft conversions, garage conversions, extensions, roofing and house renovations.

We are extremely passionate about what we do and the quality of our work, and proud to say that most of our business is generated through recommendations.

With over 15 years experience in the building industry you can trust us to bring your plans to life!

A 10 year structural guarantee applies to all of our loft conversion projects.

Roof lights Velux and windows are covered by our 10 year leak free guarantee.

All the work we do is carried out to a very high standard.

We have a reputation for reliability, professionalism, quality of workmanship, cleanliness, politeness and good health and safety. We also have our own selected team of reliable plasterers, plumbers and electricians, saving our customer the responsibility of having to supply these if they so wish.

We understand that having work done to your home can sometimes be stressful and inconvenient.

At Builderko Lofts we do our up most to make sure that this is a stress free and comfortable time. We also like to have good communication with the customer and like to build a good relationship whilst working in your home.

Having over 15 years experience in building industry and the passion for what we are doing.

All the work we do is carried out to a very high standard.

We have a reputation for reliability, professionalism, quality of workmanship, cleanliness, politeness and good health and safety. We also have our own selected team of reliable plasterers, plumbers and electricians, saving our customer the responsibility of having to supply these if they so wish.

We understand that having work done to your home can sometimes be stressful and inconvenient.

At Builderko Lofts we do our up most to make sure that this is a stress free and comfortable time. We also like to have good communication with the customer and like to build a good relationship whilst working in your home.