Smarter Energy UK Ltd

Smarter Energy UK Ltd will carry out all the necessary survey's and checks beforehand free of charge. Once all the checks have been done Smarter Energy UK Ltd will install your cavity wall Insulation.



We use the latest Carbon (Grey) expanded polystyrene bead system.



Cavity wall insulation involves the injection of EPS beads into suitable cavities, using a specified and approved system designed to ensure a complete fill of the cavity wall area.



The polystyrene used for CWI is in the form of virgin pre-formed bead which is usually combined with a binding agent or adhesive at the time of injection. Polystyrene beads are produced to a specified size and density which remains unaltered during the installation process.



The materials are produced under strict quality control to ensure compliance with the performance requirement of the appropriate British Board of Agreement Certificate.



The installation must be carried out in accordance with the relevant BBA Certificate, their surveillance scheme, the System Suppliers installation Manual and all CIGA guides to best practice.



Once installed, the bead filling in the cavity will remain an effective insulation for the life of the building and will require no further maintenance.



Properties



Thermal Conductivity: The k value of white expanded polystyrene bead should be taken as 0.038 W/m C - 0.040 W/m C (ref. individual BBA Certs)



The k value of Carbon (Grey) expanded polystyrene bead should be taken as 0.032 W/m C - 0.034 W/m C (ref. individual BBA Certs)



Density: A typical installed density is 12kgm3 +/- 2kgm3 (ref. individual BBA Certs)



Fire: The use of polystyrene bead for cavity wall insulation does not prejudice the fire resistance properties of the wall.



Water: The material is resistant to water penetration and will not transmit water across the cavity by capillary action or from below dpc level. Any rainwater penetrating the outer leaf will drain harmlessly to the footings.

The product is not designed to be a water vapour barrier.



Application



Survey: A pre-installation assessment is carried out to determine the suitability of the property for cavity wall insulation.

Preparation: Internal and external checks are carried out by the Technician prior to installation. Injection holes are drilled in the external wall of the cavity as specified by the relevant BBA Certificate and System Suppliers manual. Typically holes are drilled around the upper part of the building only and below windows and lintels. The cavity at any party wall line is sealed with a closure approved by the BBA for the purpose.



Installation: The polystyrene beads are injected into the cavity via an injection gun in a specified sequence to ensure a complete fill of the cavity.



Making good: Following the installation the injection holes are made good to match the original wall surface as closely as possible.

Post Installation Check: All fuel-burning appliances and their flues or source of air supply are checked to confirm their effectiveness.







cavity Wall Insulation stores the heat within the inner walls, bouncing it back into the room and holding it for longer. This gives you a more even temperature and gets rid of the draughts that come down from the walls.

• The cavity is located between the inner and outer brickwork of the property (show picture)

• The main materials used by NIA installers are Mineral Wool (Glass or Rock Wool), EPS Bead (Polystyrene bead) and PU Foam (Polyurethane Foam)

• Cavity Wall Insulation can lower your heating bills, lower wear and tear on your boiler and reduce global warming and climate change

• CIGA (Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency) issue an independent 25 year guarantee covering defects in materials and workmanship.

• There is also a 25 year insurance backed guarantee available for PU Foam.

• The recommended cavity width is 50mm

• Cavity Wall Insulation can give you an annual saving of up to £275. There are a number of grants and schemes available to home owners which can substantially reduce the cost of installing these product.





What is a cavity wall?



The external wall of a house is constructed of two masonry (brick or block) walls, with a cavity (gap) of at least 50mm between. Metal ties join the two walls together.



How is cavity wall insulation installed?



The cavity wall is injected with insulating material by drilling holes in the external wall, through the mortar joint. Holes are generally of 22-25mm diameter and are ‘made good’ after injection. Each hole is injected in turn, starting at the bottom.

Is my house suitable?

Before the installation, the installing firm will undertake an assessment of your property to confirm that it is suitable for insulation. This assessment may be undertaken by a surveyor or the Technician before installation.



Do I have to do anything before the installation?



The drilling process does create some vibration – so it would be wise to remove ornaments, particularly on external walls, for their safety and your peace of mind.



The Technician will need access to all walls, so he will need to get inside attached garages, lean-to sheds, conservatories etc. The insulation can only be really effective if all walls are done. If you have a wall right on the boundary, you may like to mention to your neighbour, that the Technician will need to go onto their property.



Are all the systems of insulation the same?



There are several different types of insulation:



• Bonded bead Grey Bead or white polystyrene beads

• Glass wool (Yellow or white in colour)

• Rock wool (Grey/brown in colour)



Note: both glass wool and rock wool are known as ‘mineral wool’.



All systems of CWI have been tested, assessed and approved by the British Board of Agrément or the British Standards Institution. All are suitable for their purpose.



All systems have a similar insulation value.



How do I know the walls are full?



Each system has a defined pattern of holes, which has been tested to verify that it results in a complete fill. Most systems have an automatic cut out, which actuates when the adjacent wall area is full. There is tolerance in the injection pattern so that the material will flow past the next injection hole.



What about the ventilators that are in the external wall?



Ventilators supplying combustion air to fuel burning appliances must be safeguarded. Similarly ventilators at ground level that ventilate below timber floors must be safeguarded. The Technician will investigate them to check they are already sleeved. If they are not, the Technician will remove them and seal around them to stop them being blocked by the insulation. Other vents, which may be redundant, such a cavity vents or vents that used to supply air to open fires in bedrooms may be closed off. The Technician should discuss these with you. Redundant airbricks may be filled.



How long will the insulation last?



For the life of the building - the British Board of Agrément say so.


Will my house be warmer?



Yes – if your heating is not controlled by a thermostat. However, if you have a thermostat, it will cut out the heating at the same temperature, so you may not notice the difference in the room with the thermostat. However, you should find that the temperature in other parts of your house improves, for example, the small bedroom on the corner.


With CWI, you should find that the house holds its temperature for longer, therefore the time between heating cycles may be longer. The result should be a more even temperature throughout the house and / or a reduced fuel bill.

As much as a third of the heat you pay for could be escaping through your roof. Most loft insulation materials work by preventing the movement of heated air through the material. The Government say that you cut your energy bill by up to 20% through effectively insulating your loft.



Loft insulation is located between the joists on the loft floor of your property (Roof Insulation is located between the tiles and the rafters)

The main materials we use is Knauf Ecose Quilted Mineral Wool

The recommended depth for loft insulation is 270 millimetres for glass wool, 250 millimetres for rock wool or 220 millimetres for cellulose.

Loft Insulation can help lower your heating bills, lower wear and tear on your boiler and reduce global warming and climate change

There are a number of grants and schemes available to home owners which can substantially reduce the cost of installing these products

Savings

BUILDING POTENTIAL SAVING PER YEAR INSTALLATION COST * CARBON DIOXIDE SAVING PER YEAR

Detached house £225 £395 920 kg

Semi detached house £135 £300 550 kg

Mid terrace house £120 £285 490 kg

Detached bungalow £195 £375 790 kg





* Average unsubsidised professional installation costs, although these will vary.



FAQ

What is the recommended thickness for loft insulation?

The current regulations under the EEC programme states that a minimum 270mm of loft insulation is required.



I use my loft for storage but need to get it insulated, can I do this?

Once the loft has been insulated to a minimum 270mm thickness the ceiling joists will no longer be visible making the roof space hazardous to anyone attempting to enter. However it is possible to arrange for additional joists and floor boarding to be fixed via a local joiner to help maintain your storage area. If you already have a boarded area of no more than a third of the loft area the installers will work around it and leave it uncovered.



I have electrical cables in loft. Will these be a hazard in anyway?

Apart from any cables feeding a shower unit they will not. A cable, which feeds a shower unit, is usually a 30amp. The installers will identify this and make sure this cable is not covered by the insulation by either laying the cable on top if there is enough flex or leaving a gap in the insulation around the cable to ensure it does not overheat.

I have sloping areas and flat roof areas within my property. Can these be insulated?

It is not always possible to do these areas. The reason being is that the timbers within these areas need to breathe and if loft insulation is fitted in these areas it can block the airflow off altogether. Access to these areas is usually minimal if at all existent. However every property has to be treated on an individual basis and the surveyor will make an assessment when visiting the property and advise accordingly.

My roof space is not big enough for an installer to stand up in. Will this be a problem?

It is very common that roof spaces are not big enough for anyone to stand up in. This is not usually a problem as the installers are usually working in a kneeling position on walkboards. Many companies within the industry work to a 1.4m height minimum for installers to gain access. It is very rare that a roof space is less than this.



I already have some insulation in the loft but it is not very thick, will this have to be removed or can it be topped up?

Any existing insulation can be left in the loft and an additional layer added to it to bring it up to the required minimum thickness. It does not matter how long the existing insulation has been in the loft it still retains its insulant value.

Gyproc ThermaLine Plus 40mm to 100mm range is

plasterboard bonded to an extruded

polystyrene insulant. The closed cell

structure of the foam provides integral

vapour control.

Where to use

Use it in refurbishment and new build for walls and

ceilings where a medium level of thermal insulation

is required to reduce heat loss from buildings.

Product information

Composition

This product is made from Gyproc WallBoard 9.5mm

bonded to an extruded polystyrene insulant.

Colour

Face colour: Ivory.

Colour of insulation: Orange coloured extruded

polystyrene.

Air source heat pumps (ASHPs) absorb heat from the outside air to heat your home and hot water. They can still extract heat when air temperatures are as low as -15°C.
Air source heat pumps need electricity to run, but because they are extracting renewable heat from the environment, the heat output is greater than the electricity input. This makes them an energy efficient method of heating your home.

How do air source heat pumps work?
Heat from the air is absorbed at low temperature into a fluid. This fluid passes through a compressor, increasing the temperature, and transfers that higher temperature heat to the heating and hot water circuits of the house.
Unlike gas and oil boilers, heat pumps deliver heat at lower temperatures over much longer periods. If you are installing an ASHP to replace a gas or oil boiler, you should consider whether you can also upgrade your insulation to get the most out of your ASHP. You might also consider fitting larger radiators or underfloor heating..

Is an air source heat pump suitable for me?
To tell if an air source heat pump is right for you, there are a few key questions to consider:

• Do you have somewhere to put it?

You’ll need a place outside your home where a unit can be fitted to a wall or placed on the ground. It will need plenty of space around it to get a good flow of air. The external unit is connected to an internal unit containing circulation pumps and hot water, which is usually smaller than the average boiler.
As a general rule, air source heat pumps are easier to install than ground source heat pumps, as they do not require any land to be dug up for installation. The size of the air source heat pump will vary depending on your home’s heat demand – the bigger the home, the bigger the heat pump unit you’ll need.
• What type of heating system will you use?

Air source heat pumps perform particularly well with underfloor heating systems or warm air heating because they operate at low temperatures. Homes without an existing central heating system will require one to be installed for an air source heat pump to work.
An air source heat pump is subject to fluctuating air temperatures and has to work harder to produce heat when the outside air temperature is lower. This means that in the colder months, when the heat pump is likely to be relied on the most, it will use more units of electricity to produce the same amount of heating as a ground source heat pump in the same period of time.
• Is your home well insulated?

Since air source heat pumps work best when producing heat at a lower temperature than traditional boilers, it’s important that your home is well insulated and draught-proofed to minimise heat loss.
Air source heat pumps will continue to operate at temperatures of around -15°C (some can operate at even lower temperatures), but will be most efficient at higher temperatures.
• What fuel will you be replacing?

The system is more likely to pay for itself if it’s replacing an expensive system like electric heating. You’re unlikely to save much on your heating bill if you’re switching from mains gas.
Installing a typical system costs around £9,000 to £14,000. Running costs will vary depending on a number of factors including the size of your home, how well insulated it is and what room temperatures you are aiming to achieve.

If you are unsure whether your property is suitable for Air Source Heat Pump, get in contact with one of our professional experts at SMARTER ENERGY UK by emailing us matt@smarterenergyuk.co.uk or calling us on 03334441972.