Levismar Formwork & Groundworks Ltd
HA3, Harrow
HA3, Harrow
Levismar is dedicated to deliver successful projects in order to satisfy its clients. Our reputation as a formwork contractor and profesional contractor of choice has been formed by consistently completing projects on time, within the given budget to its highest standard.
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How can someone tell if their Garage is suitable for conversion?
One of the first steps you need to take in your garage conversion planning is to look at the existing structure. You should consult a builder who has experience of the type of garage conversion you are carrying out. You might also want to speak to a structural engineer.
The walls, foundations, and floors will all need to be assessed before you can get an idea of the viability and likely costs of your conversion.
One of the main ways a garage is integrated into the rest of the house involves blocking up the old garage door opening — often replacing it with a window, full height glazing, or a new doorway.
Before this can be done, it is vital to check that the garage’s existing foundations are up to the job of supporting a new wall and any glazing. That often means digging small trial holes in front of the concrete slab in order to check its depth, which should be 200mm or more, to provide adequate support for a new brickwork wall.
There are two possible solutions if the foundations are not up to scratch.
The first is to excavate a 1m footing wall which is then filled with concrete.
The second is to add a 140mm x 100mm concrete lintel to the new wall, below ground level, on either side. The new wall can then be constructed.
Run us through the different stages of the Garage conversion process - what's involved?
Foundations
Support will be needed for any new walls constructed to infill the former door opening.
If the original foundations do not continue below the door opening, either:-
1. A new foundation should be provided, the depth of this foundation will depend on the ground conditions on the site and that of the existing foundation (generally between 750mm – 1000mm).
or
2. 2 No. 100 x 150 deep concrete lintols or 2 No. 100 x 110 pre-stressed lintols may be used to span the opening of a single garage door. The ends of the lintols should be cut into the existing brickwork to ensure a minimum end bearing of 150mm If a new skin of blockwork is used, this should only be supported off the slab if extra lightweight blocks e.g. aircrete are used.
The existing floor will need upgrading to ensure adequate damp protection and to prevent heat loss.
Damp protection can be provided by either a liquid or sheet membrane. This should link with the damp proof course in the wall. The floor should be insulated to achieve a U value not exceeding 0.25w/m2K. The thickness of insulation needed to achieve this will depend on the type used; 100mm of polyurethane foam insulation is generally acceptable. The floor finish can be 18mm T & G chipboard or 65mm reinforced screed.
As garage floors are typically 100-150mm lower than the house floor, the build up can usually be accommodated but avoid leaving a small step between adjoining floors as this can introduce a trip hazard.
Any new wall constructed to fill in the former door opening should be constructed to achieve a U value not exceeding 0.28W/m2k. Typically wall construction to achieve this would be 100mm blockwork 100mm insulation (depending on blockwork type) 100mm blockwork.
The existing external walls, if solid construction, will require upgrading to ensure a U value of at least 0.30W/m2k. The work necessary will depend upon the existing construction and the method of insulation you intend to use. You are advised to refer to specific manufacturers literature often on their website for advice on this.
Pitched Roof/Ceiling
A traditional pitched roof with level ceiling should be insulated to achieve a U value not exceeding 0.16W/m2K. This can generally be achieved by providing a total of 250-300mm (depending on the manufacturer) quilt type insulation in two layers, the first laid between the ceiling joists and the second laid at right angles over the joists.
Windows/Doors
Windows should be draught proofed and double glazed to achieve a U value not exceeding 1.6mw/m2K (e.g. Low E glass and Argon filled) or Window Energy Rating (WER) Band C.
External doors should achieve a maximum U value of 1.8.
If the new door/window is installed within a cavity wall, then insulated damp proof courses should be provided around the opening to prevent cold bridging leading to condensation problems.
Electrical
Any new eclectics should meet the requirements of Part P of the Building Regulations .
How can someone tell if their loft is suitable for conversion?
The main 'pinch-point' with loft conversions can be summed up in a single word - headroom. To see whether your loft makes the grade, simply stand under the highest point of the roof, usually in the centre of the loft, and check whether there is at least 2.8m clear vertical space.
Extensions/Basements
A Step By Step Guide To Adding An Extension Onto Your Home
Step One: Do Your Research.
Step Two: Planning Permission.
Step Three: Building Regulations.
Step Four: Find an Architect.
Step Five: Find a Builder. ... here is where we step in. Our combined experience in new build and refurbishment is what you will need to successfully build. Rely on Levismar way!
