LC Joinery Roofing and Building Work LTD
Kirkcaldy, Fife
(9)
Kirkcaldy, Fife
(9)
LC Joinery Roofing and Building Work offers an all in one servicing for any home improvements from full roof replacements right through to driveways etc. With our own tradesmen you do not have the hassle of contacting individual contractors for prices.
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9 customer reviews
Stuart Simpson
Great people here. Helped me out with my new home and were very professional from start to finish, big thanks to Lauren keeping me up to date throughout the whole process! ☺️
Reviewed on Facebook
Claire Miller
Got in touch with these guys as i was let down by a company i previously used. these guys came out sorted the issues and are now my preferred point of contact going forward. Also a special thanks to Lauren keeping me up to date throughout the whole process! thanks again everyone More...
Reviewed on Facebook
Garry Lees
Boiler service today. First time using LC but will use again.
Reviewed on Facebook
Bill Mair
LC Joinery is a full-service, all-trades builder but also a local business. They can take care of every aspect of a major job, so there's no need for a project manager. But they're right here in Fife, in Thornton, on my doorstep, and have been since 2008. If I need to get hold of them, I know where they are and they're just as happy quoting for a small job as for major alterations/construction. More...
Reviewed on Facebook
Stephanie Potter
Excellent work carried out to replace our external garage door. Job was completed in a timely manner and the guys were very good at clearing up afterwards.
Reviewed on Facebook
George Fell
Excellent work, would definitely recommend.
Reviewed on Facebook
Lauren Pratt
Highly recommended!!!! If you are looking for any type of building work to be completed then use these guys!
Reviewed on Facebook
Bill Pringle
Very good, professional roofing job, thanks
Reviewed on Google Maps
Martin Shepherd
New roof done excellent job Thanks leeMr shepherd
Reviewed on Google Maps
How can someone tell if their Garage is suitable for conversion?
Before you go ahead with your garage conversion, you need to know all the legal issues involved. There are three main things that you need to check first - if you go ahead without permission you could be forced to return everything to its original condition, at your own cost.
Restrictive clauses in your lease - You need to check your property deeds for any restrictive covenants. Some developers place a restriction on any building work that will affect the external appearance of the house. If there is such a clause, contact them, as it can often be circumvented for a fee. Your other option is to convert the inside of the garage without changing its external appearance. This is often achieved by keeping a front portion of the garage for storage space and converting the rest. Of course, the suitability of this option depends on your intentions for the garage.
Planning permission - You usually only need to apply for planning permission to convert a garage when you intend to extend the actual size of the garage. However, check with your local authority as the precise rules do differ.
Building Regulations - If you plan to convert any part of your house into a room to be used as habitable space, you will need to comply with government building regulations. A building control officer will probably need to check your conversion a number of times during construction. More information can be found on the relevant section of the government's website. Again, rules differ so you need to check with your local council. There are some instances where permission to convert your garage may be denied such as:
You live in a listed building or neighbourhood - It is very likely in this case that the external appearance of the house must be maintained as it is.
Your garage conversion would affect drainage - If you plan on concreting over your garden or anything similar, thus putting extra pressure on the existing drainage in place, you may need to invest in a solution to allay the potential for flooding or blocked drains.
Additional insulation is needed - Some councils will allow you to simply add the extra fill to the existing construction, others demand that you dig up the floor and insulate it as if building from scratch. This will affect your budget, so always check first.
Parking restrictions - In some cities where there is a particular shortage of parking spaces such as London, councils can refuse permission to convert your garage from a place where a car is kept.
Run us through the different stages of the Garage conversion process - what's involved?
Step 1: Carry out an assessment of your garage and decide how you can utilise the space. If it’s currently used to store large items, you may have to consider dedicating a section of your garage towards the storage of these items or relocate them to an outbuilding such as a lock-secured garden shed.
Research recommended contractors nearby and gather several quotes for the work. Note, if there is any electrical, gas or plumbing work to be carried out, ensure that the contractor is registered with the correct governing body and they are able to certify their work.
Step 2: All planning and building regulations and requirements will need to be considered. You may need planning permission from your local authority if the work involves converting your garage into a habitable space. If you have any doubt about gaining planning permission or meeting building regulation requirements, always ask your local authority, who will direct you.
Where possible, ask for written confirmation of any advice provided by your local authority so that you can ensure that you have the correct permissions to carry out your conversion.
Step 3: Obtain a written contract from your contractor/builder/garage conversion company which clearly states everyone’s responsibilities and what you need to pay on completion of the project.
Step 4: Once the contract is in place and you have all permission approved you can start by clearing out the garage space. If you’re expanding an existing room such as a kitchen, then now would be the ideal time to knock-through the wall. Once the debris has been cleared, you can commence with any electrical works and pipe work installations for gas and plumbing.
Hint: if the space will be used as a guest room or a playroom, you may want to consider under-floor heating.
Step 5: It’s highly likely that a garage conversion will involve the installation of at least one new external cavity wall and this stage of the conversion would be an ideal time to do so. Diligence must be taken to ensure that the wall is of sound build and is able to repel moisture from the ground (damp proofing) and also resist the outside elements.
Any new windows and doors can also be installed at this stage followed by any radiators and kitchen or bathroom units.
Step 6: Now that the majority of the building works have completed, you can begin to decorate your new space. To avoid any stains or damage to your new flooring, it may be best to get painting before the floor or carpet is laid.
Step 7: Once you’ve decorated your newly converted garage, you and your family can begin to reap the benefits of the additional space in your home!
How can someone tell if their loft is suitable for conversion?
Before you do anything else, you need to work out whether your loft space is actually suitable for a conversion.
Most houses will come with an allowance for permitted development, which means that you can go ahead with your conversion without planning permission. However, if you live in a conservation area, or if, for example, your roof space isn't tall enough, it may be more complicated.
You can ask a builder, architect or surveyor to visit your home and check this out for you, but there are also a couple of checks that you can carry out yourself prior to this.
Run us through the different stages in the loft conversion process - what’s involved?
1. Appoint an architect/technician or building surveyor. They will prepare drawings and designs for your proposal, obtain the necessary Approvals and if required they will also help you find a suitable builder and manage the project for you. See do I need an architect? and find a local architect here.
2. Appoint a specialist loft conversion company. These companies offer a one-stop shop for loft conversions: their design department will prepare the necessary drawings and obtain the necessary approvals and their construction departments will translate the designs into reality.
3. Use an experienced builder. Some builders have experience of loft conversions and may well be able to offer you a package similar to the loft conversion companies.
1. The roof space is inspected for suitability
An inspection of the inside of the roof space will provide information as to its suitability for conversion. The main features to initially consider include height, access and obstacles. Here, a water storage tank and chimney stacks formed the main obstacles, but the height and pitch suggested that conversion was possible.
2. An architect or surveyor will confirm suitability and create plans
An architect or surveyor will confirm the loft’s suitability for conversion. It is also necessary to take into account whether the building will be adequate to take the added load of a conversion. Following this, plans are drawn which also provide a basis for cost analysis, and what tasks can be done on a DIY basis.
3. The loft is cleared and prepped
With Building Control approval, work can be started by clearing the loft space. In this example the water storage tank was redundant because a new combi boiler was fitted. If this is still required then it will need to be moved to a convenient space to the side. Two chimney stacks were removed.
4. Rewiring is assessed
The electrical wiring and other services that are attached to joists and binders must be removed and rerouted. It provides a good opportunity to replace and improve the original wiring. This requirement is likely to mean that some services may not be available until the new wiring and any pipework can be replaced.
5. New floor joists fitted
The new floor joists can now be fitted. The actual sizes will depend upon the spans, but might typically be 50mm x 220mm C24 or C16 timbers spaced at 400mm intervals. Where there is a window or door opening below this is bridged by doubled-up timber suspended between doubled-up joists. The intermediate joists are attached to the window bridge using joist hangers. New wiring and any required pipework can now be installed.
6. Floors are insulated
The spaces between the joists are filled with insulation to a depth of 100mm. Following Building Control inspection, the joists can be covered with floorboards. The roofing struts and hangers are temporary but securely reinstalled until suitable replacement arrangements are in place.
7. Floorboards laid
The tongue-and-groove chipboard floorboards are held in place with screws. A water-resistant grade is a good choice, and essential in the bath or shower room.
8. Rafters reinforced
Work can now be started in rafter reinforcement in accordance with the structural requirements, so that the purlins, struts and collars can be safely removed. This will open up the area.
9. Dormers installed (if applicable)
Dormers can now be installed. This will involve opening up the roof, so dry weather is desirable to avoid the risk of water damage. The Building Control officer will inspect to ensure that the roof structure reinforcements are as specified.
10. Rooflights installed
Roof windows are an effective way of letting in natural light. In this project a roof window was fitted above the stairwell. These require the surrounding timbers to be reinforced but are easier to fit than dormers.
11. Staircase fitted
The point at which the staircase is fitted will depend upon individual circumstances, but when in place will give easier access to the loft area. In this example the hallway was widened by knocking down a non-loadbearing front room to the hallway wall and rebuilding the wall 450mm into the front room.
12. Dormers tiled and vents fitted
The dormers are tiled and clad to fully weatherproof them. The end dormers in this example have tiled roofs and tile cladding, whereas the shower room has a felted flat roof and tile cladding. Scaffolding will be required for safe working. Ridge and soffit vents are fitted at a convenient stage.
13. Windows fitted in dormers
The windows are fitted in the dormer openings previously accurately measured. PVCu Class ‘A’ windows were fitted here with an egress hinge on the side-opening sash to provide a good fire exit.
14. The roof is insulated
Insulation is placed between the rafters, with a 50mm air gap between the roofing felt and the insulation, for ventilation purposes. Over this is further insulation giving a total of 100mm. In the roof space above there is 300mm of mineral wool insulation. Building Control inspection is required before the rafters and insulation are covered.
15. Partition walls erected
The partition walls are erected. These use 47mm x 100mm timber studs at 400mm centres, with additional noggins. A quilt is placed within the spaces between the studs as the plasterboard is attached.
16. Wall plates and first fix
Wall plates fitted between studs will provide a secure fitting to items like radiators; they can also be used to secure the boxes required for electric sockets and switches. This is an ideal time to do the first fix electrics and plumbing.
17. Electrics upgraded
The new electrics must conform to Part ‘P’ of the Building Regulations and the 17th Edition Electrical Regulations. It may be necessary to fit a new consumer unit, or additional unit if the existing one has no extra capacity.
18. Access panels for water, electrics and eaves storage
Access panels are a useful addition. Here, water supplies and central heating feeds can be connected to the loft conversion. All metal pipework is earth-bonded together.
19. Walls are plasterboarded and architrave/skirting fitted
Plasterboard attached to the studs and rafters with drywall screws will provide the basis for the decorative plaster skim. Following this, the area is painted as required, and door architrave, skirting etc. fitted and painted.
20. Bathrooms clad and extraction fitted
The shower room walls are best clad with a cement-based aquaboard, first ensuring that all the required wall plates are fitted, and that all the required services are accessible. The shower room also requires an extractor fan.
21. Second fix, heating and finishes
With wall and floor tiling complete, the shower room items can be positioned and fitted. Second fix electrics and plumbing is progressed at a suitable time. The radiators are fitted in place, and connected to the central heating system. This picture also shows cupboard doors fitted to make use of the area behind for storage. Finally its time to decorate.
22. Decorating
The space is now ready for decoration.
How long have you been in business?
LC Joinery Roofing and Building Work have been trading since 2008.
What guarantee does your work come with?
Our guarantees can vary, we do not have set guarantees in place so just ask us.
What do you love most about your job?
Seeing customers love the end goal - we love improving the look of your property so there is no better time than to get started now!
