Architecture 365

Beginner’s Guide to Garage Conversions
We look at how a garage conversion could be a cheap and easy way to add space and value to your home. To determine if a conversion is possible please call 365 on 07591072160 we provide free advice. Sometimes it may be physically possible but rather not financially viable as the construction cost will be more than added capital to your home.

What do you use your garage for? If it’s turned into more of a storeroom (or a junk yard for that old exercise bike) than a safe spot to park the car, then maybe it’s time to consider making better use of what could be a valuable asset.

A garage conversion is one of the speediest and most affordable routes to adding floor space: a typical scheme creating a new home office or playroom can often be completed in little more than a week. 365 can turnover around a drawing package in 24 hours.

The typical fee for this project is around £495 inc VAT. This includes Exiting / Proposed Plans and Elevations (Part Plan) the application for this type of work is a Lawful Certificate.

Lawful Use or Development
What is a Certificate of Lawful Use or Development?
Certificates of Lawful Use or Development are certificates issued by the Department, which establish that the use or development of land is lawful in two circumstances:
(a) Article 83A Certificate of Lawfulness of Existing Use or Development.
This is where you wish to confirm that any existing use, or operation, or activity in breach of a condition or limitation on planning permission that has already taken place is lawful on the date specified in the application. It is defined as being lawful if enforcement action cannot be taken against it. This may be because it had, or did not need planning permission, or it may be the case that the use or operation took place so long ago that the time for enforcement action has expired;
(b) Article 83B Certificate of Lawfulness of Proposed Use or Development.
This is where you wish to confirm that what you are proposing would be lawful i.e. it would not require express planning permission. For example you may need to establish that what you have proposed does not constitute development, is ‘permitted development’, or already has planning permission.


Back to the garage conversion,,, you won’t need to resort to moving to get a house that suits your family’s needs; so you’ll save on fees for stamp duty, solicitors etc. What’s more, unlike a conventional home extension, it won’t eat up any of your garden amenity.

A garage conversion can also increase your home’s value. Virgin Money reckons you can net around a 10%-20% return by taking on a well-considered project that enhances the usability of your home.

How can 365 help with Designing your space
The first step with any garage conversion is to conduct an assessment of the existing structure, in particular, the soundness of the foundations, walls, and roof. We do this for free at the same time we take some measurements and also a detailed brief of how you wish to use the new space. We have a lot of clients that use https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ to collate inspirational photos.

The onsite report will go a long way to revealing the extent of works required to create a comfortable living environment – so it’s a key part of the design stages. If the building is in an especially dilapidated state, it may be cheaper to knock down and replace. We can determine this on this first visit. Getting the right result will depend on the scale of the scheme, how you want to use it and integrate it into the property, and what your budget will stretch to.

Utilising our knowledge and past experience means that you get all the potential of your garage and establish a space that flows naturally into your home.

We offer design and build of garage conversions, loft conversions, and extensions nationwide. "WE ARE THE HOUSE TO HOME EXPERTS!"

365 take your scheme through planning and building control as part of their fee. Plus our experience on-the-ground can help to ensure a smooth project and a predictable budget.

If it’s integrated or attached, the garage should be fairly easy to work into the main accommodation. You could knock through the wall to join up with an existing zone, for instance – perhaps enlarging a hallway or creating a front-to-back kitchen-diner. A detached structure, meanwhile, lends itself to segregated uses, such as an annex or quiet home office. A single garage will offer around 15m2 of floor space; more than enough for a playroom, separate drawing room, guest bed, or even an accessible downstairs shower and WC. At around 30m2, a double garage gives you more flexibility. It could house a bigger living room, ensuite bedroom, well-sized kitchen-diner or an annex. Alternatively, you could retain a single parking space by erecting a suitably insulated and fire-rated partition, and fit-out the rest for habitation.

We act of you planning permission agent.
With many garage conversions – particularly integral or attached spaces – most of the work is internal (with the exception of changing the frontage and adding a window or two). This is likely to be considered permitted development (PD), so it won’t usually need formal planning consent. In some cases, such as in conservation areas, PD rights for this change of use may have been removed – we will consult the local authority. to confirm the local status. We would always apply for a lawful development certificate to document to permission. This process takes 8 weeks normally.

Some modern builds are subject to restrictive covenants requiring the garage to be retained as parking, which would need to be discharged (check the deeds to find out if this applies). You’re also more likely to need formal permission to change the use of a detached garage.

You may still be able to pursue a scheme even if PD rights have been removed – but you’ll need to put together suitable drawings and apply for householder planning consent. This costs £234, plus our design fees.

Sometimes the proposal may require a full application if you want to significantly alter the external appearance, such as making big changes to the windows, using new materials or adding an extension. Among the other permissions, you might need to secure are listed building consent (if you live in a listed building) and party wall agreements with any adjoining neighbours. 365 can deal with all of this.

365 we do the building regulations drawings.
As this type of conversion involves a change of use, a garage conversion will always be subject to the Building Regulations. For straightforward schemes, the building notice route may be sufficient, whereby 365 or your contractor informs the local authority of your intent to start work 48 hours prior to commencing on site.

With more complex projects, 365 will provide co-ordinated architectural and structural plans. This gives you peace of mind that building control has inspected the drawings and confirmed that – if it’s constructed as per the approved schematics – your conversion will conform to the regs.

In addition to structural safety, key areas your building control officer or approved inspector will look at are damp proofing, ventilation, insulation and energy efficiency, fire safety (including escape routes), electrics and plumbing.

Key works
Before the project can start in earnest, the walls and roof must be made sound and watertight. Thereafter, most of the work will take place inside the existing garage.
The first job will be stripping out the main structure, at which point you’ll get the clearest view yet of what’s in store – including where you’re most likely to encounter unexpected problems (such as patchy foundations or hidden issues in the walls) that could add to costs.

Here are some of the main considerations:
Floor-slab - An existing concrete floor might well be strong enough to cope with general domestic use. However, it may need to be leveled (consider a self-leveling liquid screed), damp-proofed with a suitable membrane (lapping into the walls’ DPC) and insulated to achieve adequate thermal performance. Our building regulations drawings will detail all elements. this enables the tender prices to come back without extras.

Garage floors tend to be lower than those in the main house, so it may be possible to incorporate all of this and still achieve a step-free threshold between the two zones.

Infilling the door- The most common route is to replace the main garage door with conventional walling matching the rest of the building, such as a masonry infill fully toothed and bonded into the existing brickwork. The design stage assessment should identify whether the foundations need upgrading to take the new loads. Planning allowing, you could add windows or a glazed access door and introduce more daylight into your new space, which may also help reduce the loads imposed.

If your budget will stretch, you could even have a little fun with the design – perhaps by going for a fully glazed wall.

Wall insulation - Integrated garages are usually built to the same standard as the main house, so the walls may not need upgrading. Attached or detached garages of single-skin construction can be insulated internally; usually by erecting stud walling using timbers deep enough to accept sufficient insulation (plus an air gap). Buildings with cavity walls can have insulation blown into the gap, thus preserving the internal floor space. If you’re going for a part-conversion, retaining a parking space, you’ll need to erect a fully-insulated internal dividing wall that is designed to provide 30-minute fire protection. This can be done in blockwork, or switch to timber studwork lined with pink fireline plasterboard on the garage side.

Roof insulation - The simplest way to insulate a garage roof is at loft level. With a pitched covering, 270mm of mineral wool should be sufficient – 100mm between the joists, and the rest on top. Warm roof setups, which are insulated at rafter level, are also possible and can enable the use of rooflights to bring in more natural brightness. Flat roofs will need to be fitted with rigid insulation between and under the ceiling joists, with a ventilation gap above to prevent condensation. If you want to preserve floor-to-ceiling height, go for slim multifoil or PIR (polyisocyanurate) products.

Windows & doors - The fenestration you specify will need to hit the required whole-unit U-values (1.6 W/m2K for windows; 1.8 for doors), match your security expectations, provide adequate ventilation and suit the style of your home. If you’re keen to keep costs down, aim to work to standard-sized units. Casements, sashes and doorsets can be incorporated by punching a suitable hole in the wall and adding lintels as required. The same is true of openings between the main house and garage. For larger spans enabling a more open-plan feel, a reinforcing steel beam may be needed. This kind of work may require calculations from a structural engineer. We use the same structural consultant we charge £125 + VAT per calculation.

If you’re creating a habitable room that doesn’t offer a direct protected route to an external door, or its own door leading to outside, then you’ll need to provide an escape window. This must have a width and height of no less than 450mm, a clear openable area of at least 0.33m2 and should be sited so the bottom of the openable area is no more than 1,100mm from finished floor level.

Heating & electrics - The most straightforward way to get this infrastructure in place is to engage professionals qualified to self-certify their work under Part P of the Building Regulations.

You’ll almost certainly need new electrical circuits and heating loops, which will put additional loads on your consumer unit and boiler. If these systems need upgrading, this could easily add upwards of £2,000 to your overall project budget.

Efficient LED downlights are a good choice for illumination, as they can be easily integrated into the new ceiling structure. Heating-wise, plumbing in a suitably-sized radiator will be the cheapest solution – but slimline underfloor heating is a sleek alternative that can maximise the floorplan and free up wall space. If you’re planning a kitchen or bathroom, you’ll need to account for hot and cold water supplies as well as drainage. Ventilation is another key issue. Openable windows, fitted with trickle vents, will be sufficient in most cases – but if you’re incorporating a bathroom or kitchen, you’ll need a powerful enough extractor fan to manage moisture build-up.

Garage conversion costs - Provided the structure is in reasonable condition, this type of project should be more cost-effective than adding an extension or carrying out a loft conversion. A 15m2 integrated garage in good condition could be renovated for as little as £6,000 (£400 per m2). It’ll cost significantly more to convert a detached building, partly because it’s trickier to bring in services – expect to pay from around £15,000 (£1,000 per m2) to renovate a standalone single garage.

Even this should prove cheaper than most single-storey extensions, which will typically start from around £1,200 per m2.

Ultimately, costs will depend on the kind of space you’re creating and the quality of finish you want to achieve.

Kitting your conversion out with a kitchen, bathroom or utility could add another £2,000-£3,000 in plumbing and electrical work – plus whatever you choose to spend on furniture and fittings.

Call 07591072160 or email itsarchitecture365@gmail.com and lets do this!!!!

Loft conversions: step-by-step guide - Find out how to get started on your loft conversion with our expert advice on working out whether your loft is suitable, choosing the type of conversion Call 07591072160 or email itsarchitecture365@gmail.com and lets do this!!!!

There are a lot of seemingly complicated steps to getting your loft converted, so knowing where to start can feel daunting. But fear not, as 365 is here to help make the process feel easier to manage.
In this guide, we'll explain the key stages of a loft conversion and tell what you need to consider each step of the way.

Can my loft be converted?
Before you do anything else, you need to work out whether your loft space is actually suitable for a conversion.

Most houses will come with an allowance for permitted development, which means that you can go ahead with your conversion without planning permission. However, if you live in a conservation area, or if, for example, your roof space isn't tall enough, it may be more complicated.

You can Call 07591072160 or email itsarchitecture365@gmail.com but there are also a couple of checks that you can carry out yourself prior to this.

Look for other conversions on your street - An easy way to get an idea of whether your loft can be converted is to see whether any similar houses on your street have had loft conversions. If you do spot examples, it's more likely to be a possibility. If you can, it's also worth going one step further and asking to take a look at the loft of anyone in your street that has had it done.

Measure the head height - The minimum height you need for a loft conversion is 2.2m, and you can easily measure this yourself. Take a tape measure and run it from the floor to the ceiling at the tallest part of the room. If it's 2.2m or more, your loft should be tall enough to convert. Victorian houses tend to be lower than those built from 1930 onwards, so may not have sufficient head height.

Check what type of roof you have - Depending on when it was built, your house will either have roof trusses or rafters. By looking through your loft hatch, you should be able to tell straight away what type of roof you have. Rafters run along the edge of the roof and will leave most of the triangular space below hollow. Trusses are supports that run through the cross-section of the loft. Converting a loft with trusses is possible, but extra structural support is needed to replace the trusses, and it's likely to be more costly. If you take some photos and email them to itsarchitecture365@gmail.com one of our team can confirm this for you free of charge.

Consider the floor below - Many people neglect to factor in changes to the floor below the loft when planning a conversion. It's worth having a think about where the staircase is likely to go and how much room it might take up. Even a well-designed space-saving staircase could take up a sizeable chunk of a room, so make sure you have space you're happy to lose. Once you've assessed whether you are able to have a loft conversion, it's worth knowing the typical loft conversion costs. The Architectural fee is around £1495 + VAT.

Which type of loft conversion should I go for?
There are four main types of loft conversion: roof light, dormer, hip-to-gable and mansard. The one you choose is likely to be determined by a number of factors, including the type and age of house you live in, and your budget.

If your loft is already large enough then adding roof lights is a cheap way to convert it into a habitable space.

Roof light conversions - Roof light conversions are by far the cheapest and least disruptive option, as you won't have to make any changes to the shape or pitch of the roof. Instead, it's simply a case of adding in skylight windows, laying down a proper floor, and adding a staircase to make the room habitable. However, you'll need to have enough roof space already without having an extension for this type of conversion.

Dormer conversions - A dormer loft conversion is an extension that protrudes from the slope of the roof. Dormers, in particular flat-roof dormers, are the most popular type of conversion. They are suitable for pretty much any house with a sloping roof. Dormer conversions are less expensive than mansard or hip-to-gable conversions, but will still add a good deal of extra headroom and floor space.

Hip-to-gable conversions - Hip-to-gable conversions work by extending the sloping 'hip' roof at the side of your property outwards to create a vertical 'gable' wall, creating more internal loft space. This type of conversion will only work on detached or semi-detached houses, as it requires a free sloping side roof. If you have a detached house with sloping roofs on either side, you can build on both of these to create an even more spacious double hip-to-gable extension.

Mansard conversions - Mansard extensions run along the whole length of your house's roof and will alter the angle of the roof slope, making it almost vertical. These tend to be the most expensive type of conversion but will result in a significant amount of extra space. Mansard conversions are suitable for most property types, including terraced, semi-detached and detached houses.

How do I choose a builder or architect?
When hiring any tradesmen, it's best to start with a recommendation. Speak to friends and family, and have a look online to see if there are any local forums offering recommendations.

Will I need planning permissions? - Many loft conversions are covered by permitted development rights and won't need planning permission. However, if you live on designated land or have a certain style of property that's tricky to convert, you may not be covered by permitted development.

You can find out more about whether you'll need planning permission, and any other permissions you might need Call 07591072160 or email itsarchitecture365@gmail.com and we can confirm for free.

This step-by-step guide shows how the roof space in a 1950s bungalow was converted to provide two bedrooms and a shower room — all at a cost of £21,600 (which, according to a recent valuation, has added £35,000 in value). Use this article as a guide to schedule your own loft conversion.

Do I Need Planning Permission for my Loft Conversion? - You don’t normally require planning permission for a standard room-in-roof loft conversion – that may include a dormer – unless:
- the newly converted space is over 50m³ (40m³ for a terraced home);
- the dormer is beyond the plane of the existing roof slope on the front elevation;
- the dormer is higher than the current highest part of the roof (this is often the case in mansard style extensions);
- you want to include side windows that are non-obscure glazed and/or less than 1.7m above the floor;
- you live in a specially designated area such as a Conservation Area or your home is listed;
- the dormer will be within 20cm of the eaves.

It is always best to check with your local planning department to clarify the above. we can confirm this for you.

Regardless of whether it needs planning approval, a loft conversion will require Building Regulations approval.
For more advice on planning approval and Building Regulations, visit planningportal.gov.uk

Step-by-Step of a Loft Conversion:
1. The roof space is inspected for suitability by a member of the 365 team.
An inspection of the inside of the roof space will provide information as to its suitability for conversion. The main features to initially consider include height, access and obstacles. Here, a water storage tank and chimney stacks formed the main obstacles, but the height and pitch suggested that conversion was possible. It is also necessary to take into account whether the building will be adequate to take the added load of a conversion. Following this, plans are drawn which also provide a basis for cost analysis, and what tasks can be done on a DIY basis.

2. The loft is cleared and prepped - With Building Control approval, work can be started by clearing the loft space.

pace. In this example the water storage tank was redundant because a new combi boiler was fitted. If this is still required then it will need to be moved to a convenient space to the side. Two chimney stacks were removed.

3 Rewiring is assessed - The electrical wiring and other services that are attached to joists and binders must be removed and rerouted. It provides a good opportunity to replace and improve the original wiring. This requirement is likely to mean that some services may not be available until the new wiring and any pipework can be replaced.

4. New floor joists fitted - The new floor joists can now be fitted. The actual sizes will depend upon the spans, but might typically be 50mm x 220mm C24 or C16 timbers spaced at 400mm intervals. Where there is a window or door opening below this is bridged by doubled-up timber suspended between doubled-up joists. The intermediate joists are attached to the window bridge using joist hangers. New wiring and any required pipework can now be installed.

5. Floors are insulated - The spaces between the joists are filled with insulation to a depth of 100mm. Following Building Control inspection, the joists can be covered with floorboards. The roofing struts and hangers are temporary but securely reinstalled until suitable replacement arrangements are in place.

6. Floorboards laid - The tongue-and-groove chipboard floorboards are held in place with screws. A water-resistant grade is a good choice, and essential in the bath or shower room.

7. Rafters reinforced - Work can now be started in rafter reinforcement in accordance with the structural requirements so that the purlins, struts, and collars can be safely removed. This will open up the area.

8. Dormers installed (if applicable) - Dormers can now be installed. This will involve opening up the roof, so dry weather is desirable to avoid the risk of water damage. The Building Control officer will inspect to ensure that the roof structure reinforcements are as specified.

9. Rooflights installed - Roof windows are an effective way of letting in natural light.

10. Staircase fitted - The point at which the staircase is fitted will depend upon individual circumstances, but when in place will give easier access to the loft area.

11. Dormers tiled and vents fitted - The dormers are tiled and clad to fully weatherproof them. The end dormers in this example have tiled roofs and tile cladding, whereas the shower room has a felted flat roof and tile cladding. Scaffolding will be required for safe working. Ridge and soffit vents are fitted at a convenient stage.

12. Windows fitted in dormers - The windows are fitted in the dormer openings previously accurately measured. PVCu Class ‘A’ windows were fitted here with an egress hinge on the side-opening sash to provide a good fire exit.

13. The roof is insulated - Insulation is placed between the rafters, with a 50mm air gap between the roofing felt and the insulation, for ventilation purposes. Over this is further insulation giving a total of 100mm. In the roof space above there is 300mm of mineral wool insulation. Building Control inspection is required before the rafters and insulation are covered.

14. Partition walls erected - The partition walls are erected. These use 47mm x 100mm timber studs at 400mm centres, with additional noggins. A quilt is placed within the spaces between the studs as the plasterboard is attached.

15. Wall plates and first fix - Wall plates fitted between studs will provide a secure fitting to items like radiators; they can also be used to secure the boxes required for electric sockets and switches. This is an ideal time to do the first fix electrics and plumbing.

16. Electrics upgraded - The new electrics must conform to Part ‘P’ of the Building Regulations and the 17th Edition Electrical Regulations. It may be necessary to fit a new consumer unit, or additional unit if the existing one has no extra capacity.

17. Access panels for water, electrics and eaves storage - Access panels are a useful addition. Here, water supplies and central heating feeds can be connected to the loft conversion. All metal pipework is earth-bonded together.

18. Walls are plasterboarded and architrave/skirting fitted - Plasterboard attached to the studs and rafters with drywall screws will provide the basis for the decorative plaster skim. Following this, the area is painted as required, and door architrave, skirting etc. fitted and painted.

19. Bathrooms clad and extraction fitted - The shower room walls are best clad with a cement-based aquaboard, first ensuring that all the required wall plates are fitted, and that all the required services are accessible. The shower room also requires an extractor fan.

21. Second fix, heating and finishes - With wall and floor tiling complete, the shower room items can be positioned and fitted. Second fix electrics and plumbing is progressed at a suitable time. The radiators are fitted in place and connected to the central heating system. Finally, its time to decorate.

22. Decorating
The space is now ready for decoration.

Making the decision to pursue architecture is not easy.

The most beautiful aspect of architecture as a profession is how the industry embraces the individuality of each person. Of course, designing buildings is in itself a fulfilling creative pursuit; but even beyond that you are allowed, and in fact encouraged, to have a style which can manifest beyond your work. The idea of wanting to live an “authentic life” has been a trending buzzword lately, and being an architectural technologist can certainly serve as a conduit to a desire to live creatively.

Perhaps the greatest advantage of being an architectural technologist is having a lifetime’s work that remains after you’re gone to remind people of your efforts. You can ultimately live a life much larger and longer than your own mortality allows because the buildings that you design will represent you.

There is no such thing as having too much knowledge as an architect. Each new project is a window for inquiry into new technology, theories of organization, or methods of construction. To articulate this information in your building designs, you need to very quickly understand expert knowledge on the specific technique that you wish to include in order to collaborate with corresponding professionals. As maestros of the orchestra that is the whole construction team, architects become specialists at everything.